The View From Below

“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” – Jawaharial Nehru

Sweat dripped down along my face as I drew my stare upwards against the towering canyon wall. The sun, which had been racing upward into the sky as we began our journey down into the deep ravine, shone brightly against my face, glinting against the colorful walls that surrounded us. Dust hung in the air, stirred up by the pack of mules that had just passed by carrying a group of tourists down to Phantom Ranch. My heart was pounding in my chest, my lungs fighting for every breath, and my legs on fire with lactic acid. But my eyes, taking in the view from below, darted from the steep uphill trail toward the surrounding lush greenery we had just left in Indian Garden. We had just hiked 4.5 miles down Bright Angel Trail to this oasis in the desert and were making our way back up to the trailhead.

The hike began at 6,850 feet, in the shade of an early morning. The sun was just beginning to rise, so our decent into the canyon would be mostly shaded on the way down. We greeted the mules that waited in the corral at the trailhead of Bright Angel Trail before starting our hike. The canyon walls on the western side of the canyon were on fire from the rays of the rising sun. The beauty of the Grand Canyon illuminated our path as we strolled happily along the steep, well maintained trail. Each layer of the canyon etched the story of a unique geological era. Hardy green shrubs grew up through the red soil, fighting the elements of a desert landscape for every survival advantage. We knew the desert was deceiving us as we continued to descend deeper into the depths of the canyon. Our lungs were filled with sweet air, our hearts beat steadily in our chests, and our legs eccentrically contracted with ease as we fought gravity's pull downward. The steep decline was filled with switchbacks that framed the canyon walls from different vantage points, bringing our destination closer into view.

We spent about 15 minutes at each break point (1.5 and 3 mile rest houses) filling our water bottles and stretching our legs. Deeper we hiked, passing fewer and fewer hikers as we made our way to Indian Garden. The trail grew more flat and narrow, cacti crowding our feet as we moved. I stopped occasionally to peer into the distance, searching for the place where we began our journey high above where our feet left footprints in the sand. The sun had finally found us, scorching our backs as we peeled off the layers that had once fended off the chill. We found shade at the campgrounds of Indian Garden. Tall green cottonwood trees with large leaves provided shelter from the sun's rays and a respite before the ascent back up. We spent half an hour exploring this heavenly place, lathering on a layer of sunscreen, draining our water bottles, and munching on carb heavy snacks to replenish our stores.

The "wall" lay ahead. After a relatively flat 1.5 mile hike away from Indian Garden, 3 miles of 3,000 feet elevation gain and endless switchbacks stand between us and the hospitality of the south rim. This leg of the journey requires mental fortitude and physical toughness. The sun sits high in the sky now, as we ascend back up. I squint into the distance, feeling the heaviness of my legs and the preponderance of my pack. The reverse hiking had seduced us, pulling us deeper into the canyon. Now, we fought our way back up, 3 miles to the top. Right foot. Left foot. Step. By. Step. The desert tested our resilience and strength. The beauty and hike once again took our breath away. But we inched our way back, making it to where the journey had begun at the top of the Bright Angel Trailhead. I stood in awe. Proud of what we had accomplished. Breathlessly, I smiled. Time for a campfire and s'mores!